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Shed Dormers

A single shallow slope running with the main roof — wide, low and understated. Long runs of glazing without a full-width box.

Free measured surveyA specialist visits, measures and tells you what the roof will and will not take.
Fixed written priceOne quotation covering structure, scaffold, weatherproofing, glazing and making good.
Building control managedWe submit, book the inspections and hand you the completion certificate.
Insured and guaranteed£5m public liability, ten-year structural and twenty-year flat roofing guarantees.
Nationwide coverageDirectly employed and vetted specialist teams across England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland.

Shed Dormers — indicative geometry

What a shed dormer actually is

A shed dormer has one plane, pitched more shallowly than the main roof, running back to meet it. Because there are no hips or valleys it is the cheapest wide dormer to build, and it can stretch across most of a rear elevation without looking like a bolted-on box. It suits 1930s semis and chalet bungalows particularly well.

Specification at a glance

Typical projection2.4m – 7.0m wide
Pitch15° – 25°, shallower than main roof
Roof finishInterlocking tile, slate or membrane
StructureRafters spanning to a ridge beam
Head height gained2.2m+ across most of the span
Typical build3–5 weeks on site
Indicative guide prices. Our online tool gives a realistic range in about a minute — pick your dormer type, width, finish and scope. Get an indicative price →

How we build it

Everything is priced from a measured survey, not a phone call — which is why our quotations tend to be the ones that still hold at the end of the job. Every shed dormers job runs the same seven stages — survey and feasibility, design and consent, scaffold and protection, structure, weatherproofing, glazing, then finish and sign-off.

If the property is in a conservation area or the dormer faces the road, a full planning application is needed. We prepare the drawings and handle the submission either way.

What is included in the price

  • Measured survey, structural calculations and full working drawings
  • Planning application or lawful development certificate, and the building regulations application
  • Scaffold design, erection, weekly inspection, hire and dismantling
  • All structure, weatherproofing, flashings, gutters and cladding
  • Glazing with escape-compliant opening lights where required
  • Building control inspections and your completion certificate
  • Waste removal and making good

Where this goes wrong elsewhere

The two failures we are called to fix most often on shed dormers are undersized or incorrectly lapped flashings, and a vapour control layer that stops at the first awkward junction. Neither shows up for a winter or two. Both are cheap to do properly at build stage and expensive to correct afterwards.

Send us the address and roughly what you are hoping to gain, and we will come back with a realistic answer rather than an optimistic one.

Related work

How a dormer gets built

Seven stages, in this order, every time

The sequence matters. Most dormer problems come from doing one of these out of order — glazing before the flashings, or opening the roof before the materials land.

01

Survey and feasibility

A specialist measures the roof, checks ridge height, span and structure, and confirms whether you are inside permitted development.

02

Design and consent

Measured drawings, elevations and sections. We submit the planning application or lawful development certificate and the building regulations application.

03

Scaffold and protection

Scaffold designed, erected and inspected. Temporary weather protection over the work area before anything is opened.

04

Structure

Ridge beam and floor steels craned or manhandled in, new joists laid, the dormer frame built and sheathed.

05

Weatherproofing

Deck, insulation, membrane or lead, cheek cladding, flashings and gutters — the dormer is weathertight from this point.

06

Glazing

Windows fitted square, sealed and drained, with escape-compliant opening lights where required.

07

Finish and sign-off

Plaster, electrics, decoration and making good, final building control inspection and your completion certificate.

FAQs

Shed Dormers — your questions

How long does a dormer take to build?

A single box or flat roof dormer is typically three to five weeks on site. A full-width rear dormer runs five to eight weeks, and an L-shaped dormer on a terrace with an outrigger is closer to seven to ten. A complete dormer loft conversion including the staircase, services and finishes is usually eight to twelve weeks from scaffold up to sign-off.

Does a dormer need building regulations approval?

Yes, always — permitted development covers planning, not building control. A dormer needs approval for structure, thermal performance under Part L, fire escape and protected route under Part B, and stairs under Part K if a staircase is involved. We handle the application, the inspections and the completion certificate.

What is the best roof covering for a flat dormer?

GRP fibreglass and EPDM rubber are the two we specify most. GRP cures into a single seamless laminate with bonded trims and suits small tops with several upstands. EPDM is a one-piece membrane that copes better with movement on larger spans. Both carry twenty-year guarantees; mineral felt is cheaper but has a materially shorter life.

Can I put a dormer on the front of my house?

Front-facing dormers are not covered by permitted development and always need a full planning application. Approval depends heavily on the street scene — planners look at whether other dormers already exist on the road, and at proportion, position and materials. Hipped and pitched forms are approved far more often than flat boxes on a front elevation.

Will a dormer add value to my house?

A properly built and signed-off dormer conversion adding a bedroom and bathroom typically returns a meaningful share of its cost in value, and more in areas where floor space is scarce. The building control completion certificate is what makes the space count as habitable floor area on a valuation — without it, surveyors will not include it.

Can you match my existing roof tiles?

Usually. Most common clay and concrete profiles are still in production or available reclaimed, and we source a match at survey stage so you see it before work starts. Where a discontinued profile cannot be matched exactly, we normally recommend taking tiles from a less visible slope for the dormer and using the closest new match on the hidden elevation.

What is the difference between a dormer and a Velux?

A rooflight sits flush in the roof slope and gives you light without any extra height — you still have a sloping ceiling. A dormer projects out from the roof and creates vertical walls with a level ceiling behind them, so you gain genuinely usable standing space and floor area, not just daylight.

Read all frequently asked questions →

Find out what your roof will take

A free measured survey tells you what is achievable, what it needs, and what it costs — before you commit to anything.

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