Dormer questions, answered properly

Rear dormers on a house often fall under permitted development, provided the dormer is set at least 200mm back from the eaves, sits below the ridge line, uses materials similar in appearance to the existing house, and stays within the volume allowance — 40m³ for a terrace, 50m³ for a semi or detached. Front-facing dormers, flats and maisonettes, listed buildings, conservation areas and any property with an Article 4 direction all need a full planning application. We check the constraints on your specific address before we quote.

A single flat roof dormer typically runs from around £9,000 to £20,000 supplied and fitted, depending on width, cladding finish and access. A full-width rear dormer on a semi is usually £28,000 to £45,000, and a complete dormer loft conversion including stairs, insulation, plaster and building control sign-off is more commonly £40,000 to £70,000. Our online guide-price tool gives you an indicative range in about a minute.

A single box or flat roof dormer is typically three to five weeks on site. A full-width rear dormer runs five to eight weeks, and an L-shaped dormer on a terrace with an outrigger is closer to seven to ten. A complete dormer loft conversion including the staircase, services and finishes is usually eight to twelve weeks from scaffold up to sign-off.

No. The roof is only opened once the scaffold, temporary weather protection and materials are all on site, and the dormer is made weathertight — structure, deck, membrane and temporary glazing — before the crew leaves at the end of the opening-up phase. We do not open a roof on a Friday afternoon.

Yes, always — permitted development covers planning, not building control. A dormer needs approval for structure, thermal performance under Part L, fire escape and protected route under Part B, and stairs under Part K if a staircase is involved. We handle the application, the inspections and the completion certificate.

Usually yes, and bungalows often give the best results because the spans are wide and there are no party walls. The deciding factor is ridge height: you generally want at least 2.6m from the top of the ceiling joists to the underside of the ridge. We measure this at survey before committing to anything.

GRP fibreglass and EPDM rubber are the two we specify most. GRP cures into a single seamless laminate with bonded trims and suits small tops with several upstands. EPDM is a one-piece membrane that copes better with movement on larger spans. Both carry twenty-year guarantees; mineral felt is cheaper but has a materially shorter life.

In our experience the window itself is the cause less than a fifth of the time. Far more often it is the apron flashing at the dormer front, the lead soakers where the cheeks meet the roof slope, the back gutter behind a pitched dormer, or a split at an upstand in the flat covering. Water then tracks along a rafter and appears somewhere else entirely, which is why we trace the path before quoting.

Front-facing dormers are not covered by permitted development and always need a full planning application. Approval depends heavily on the street scene — planners look at whether other dormers already exist on the road, and at proportion, position and materials. Hipped and pitched forms are approved far more often than flat boxes on a front elevation.

Current building regulations want around 0.15–0.18 W/m²K for a new dormer roof and 0.18 W/m²K for the cheeks and front. In practice that is a warm-roof build-up using 100–150mm of PIR insulation above or between the structure, with a continuous vapour control layer on the warm side. Getting the VCL continuous matters more than the insulation thickness.

A properly built and signed-off dormer conversion adding a bedroom and bathroom typically returns a meaningful share of its cost in value, and more in areas where floor space is scarce. The building control completion certificate is what makes the space count as habitable floor area on a valuation — without it, surveyors will not include it.

Yes. We prepare measured drawings, elevations and sections, submit the application or the lawful development certificate, and deal with the case officer's queries. On conservation and listed work we also put together the heritage justification the application needs.

Usually. Most common clay and concrete profiles are still in production or available reclaimed, and we source a match at survey stage so you see it before work starts. Where a discontinued profile cannot be matched exactly, we normally recommend taking tiles from a less visible slope for the dormer and using the closest new match on the hidden elevation.

Yes. Every quotation we issue includes scaffold design, erection, weekly inspection, hire for the programme and dismantling. Scaffold appearing as an extra afterwards is one of the more common complaints about dormer work, so we price it in from the start.

A rooflight sits flush in the roof slope and gives you light without any extra height — you still have a sloping ceiling. A dormer projects out from the roof and creates vertical walls with a level ceiling behind them, so you gain genuinely usable standing space and floor area, not just daylight.

Yes, and it is usually a shorter job than starting from scratch because the floor, staircase and services already exist. We verify the existing floor structure and any previous building control approval first, then cut and form the dormer into the finished room. Expect the room to be out of use for three to five weeks.

Structurally, as wide as the roof — full-width rear dormers regularly run six to eight metres, carried on a steel ridge beam. The limits are usually planning volume allowances and the setbacks needed at eaves and ridge, rather than what can be built.

Yes. That work is detail-led: matching sightlines, glazing bar widths, cill projections and cheek finishes to what survives, and specifying timber, lead and natural slate rather than modern equivalents. We prepare the drawings and heritage statement for listed building consent alongside the planning application.

Less than people expect, because most of the work happens above your ceilings and is reached from the scaffold. The noisy phases are opening up and installing steels, typically two to four days. Once the staircase is cut in there is dust and traffic through the house, and we sheet and protect the route for that period.

Structural work carries a ten-year guarantee, GRP and EPDM flat roofing twenty years, windows ten years on frames and sealed units, and lead and zinc work is covered for workmanship for ten years. You also receive the building control completion certificate, which is the document that actually matters when you sell.

Very often, yes — a full-width or L-shaped dormer usually has enough floor area for a bedroom plus a shower room. The practical constraints are getting soil and waste down to an existing stack, and whether the head height over the shower tray works. Both are settled at survey.

In a loft conversion, at least one window in each habitable room generally needs to meet escape requirements — a clear opening of at least 0.33m², minimum 450mm in both height and width, with the bottom of the opening between 800mm and 1100mm above floor level. We specify the opening lights to meet this as standard.

Yes, with adjustments. Temporary weather protection over the scaffold lets structural work continue in most conditions. GRP roofing needs dry conditions above about 5°C to cure properly, so in a cold spell we either sequence it differently or specify EPDM, which is unaffected.

It comes out. Insulation at ceiling-joist level is in the wrong place once the loft is a room — the thermal line moves up to the new roof and dormer build-up. We remove and dispose of the old quilt and insulate the new envelope, which is also what makes the room comfortable to use in August.